Why is the backshifting so soft on this machine?


Last weekend I finally got time to tear into my clutch again to try to solve the age old question "Why am I not seeing gains by clocking the spring and why is the backshifting so soft on this machine?" I had tried and tried different settings on the clutch, different belts, lubing certain parts, replacing parts and about everything else I could think of. Finally I was down to just the spring that had not been replaced but it looked fine. I ordered it anyway and to my surprise the new spring looked MUCH different and even better…..IT WORKED 100x BETTER!!! Below you will see pictures of the difference in the springs. To clarify the old spring still worked, looked good and was OK, but just ok. My symptoms were it was a soft backshift (when rolling at 15-20mph and you stood on the gas it lugged just a bit and it didnt jump out of the hole) and no matter what I did I didnt feel any real change when clocking the spring. Also when i messed with the clutch spring at all I lost top end speed (71mph originally down to 65ish). Now with JUST changing the spring and set to B2 I am back at 71mph! My hunch on this is that some percentage of the springs are flawed and either didnt temper right or are a bad metal compound and loose their springyness (not a real word but you get the idea). So either over time or when you coil it harder and release it you loose the firm backshift and extra pressure you need from the spring. Cheap enough part, easy enough to replace. If you are seeing these problems its WELL worth doing.

FYI the old spring is longer and on the left. New spring is on the right

3 years 0 Answers 913 views 0

Answers ( No )

  1. Nice find chad. When i took mine from stock to C1 i cant say i felt much of difference. You order through alpha sports ? Also how is the longer oil dip stick working for you ?

  2. Thanks, and yup I ordered my spring through alpha. The longer dip stick sure helps. Its not perfect but its much better. It really is just a hard design to get in there with any ease.

  3. Sorry mine is at C1. I had put A1 by accident

  4. How hard is it to do

  5. No harder than clocking the spring. about 2 hours the first time and I can do it in about 1 hour 15 min now pretty easy. Takes as long to get all my tools rounded up LOL

  6. What tools needed. Anything special

  7. Cool man. Now I may know why mine won’t do but 60

  8. Hmmm…. wonder if I should go this route with my cforce 500HO… same issue. I get about 45mph top speed on mine. Decent for a 500 I guess lol.

  9. I can’t say it’s the silver bullet for all the issues but it sure is something to keep in mind

  10. Amazing descovery. This explains why some have not had the same results on clocking others have had.

  11. What size tires you running?

    May need to look into it as I have same symptoms. Ejk and snorkel and lost too end

    420 miles

  12. Will have to make the tools and get it done

  13. im running 26" tires. I have gone stock sizes to 26x10x14 all the way around and the top speed was negligibly effected. I am running a exhaust and EJK….still no real change in top end. I believe it is all because of the clutch causing the problem

  14. If you are seeing the symptoms I was then I would suggest it. I made the sheave tool a year ago.

  15. Theres mine. Prob a bit overkill but it works. Just 2 flat piece metal bolt in center to allow me to adjust for either primary or secondary and the ends are just bolts too .

  16. This is Peters pic i think but my spring compression tool is same thing.

  17. Here is price for spring. Go to alpha sports and after you select your model its under DRIVEN PULLEY REAR.

  18. For those of you wanting to know what you need to do to do this how/how to go about doing it….here is a tech article I wrote up on my race teams website showing how.

  19. Also Clark Starr has a good video on how to disassemble the clutch and here is a good video on re assembly so you dont get it wrong like i did my 1st time assembling it.


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