How to Adjust the Antidive on a GL1500
Hello guys, anyone give me advice on how to adjust the antidive on a gl1500. 1991 interstate . I am reading there are 4 settings .
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Answers ( 34 )
If I am not mistaken, there is and anti-dive adjustment on the 1200, but none on the 1500. Someone smarter than me may be along shortly…
Add a set of Progressive springs to the front end. Stock springs go soft in a very short time ( or Miles). You will notice the difference in 30′ of riding…Steve is right, no adj. on the GL1500
Just replaced the seals …. wondering if I can’t replace the springs without taking the forks off again . Should be able to while it’s still on the bike . Would hate to have to take the all apart again .
Sure…Jack the bike up, get the front end off the ground. Stabilize it securely… remove the front wheel if you wish…drain all the fluids from both tubes. Remove the old springs. Close off the drains, add the new fork oil…add the springs. And now…this is the hard part. Push down on the top cap and screw it in gently. I used to score the cap to know its’ starting point precisely. Do not cross the threads. I did this for a living early on and replaced hundreds of these springs. I did make a heavy tool for that top socket, but I have seen it done by brute (slow) force. Can you visualize it…you are done.
Tim, thanks …. I just bidnt want to take it all apart . I have a bike lift .
My uncle does this straddling the bike with a rope wrapped around the triple tree and around his back so he can push with more than just body weight. I made a spring compression tool the goes through the hole for the Schrader valve to eliminate the effort needed to thread the cap against the spring compression. Drawing the new fork fluid from the bottom of the leg helps eliminate the need to work the air out. Use 15 wt oil per the Progressive springs instructions. Set the oil height evenly. Use a straw cut the the needed length with a syringe siphon and a gauge to keep the plastic tube at the same height. Slightly over fill each fork and then siphon off the extra.
Alex Cassie sounds like something that is done often. Thanks …. didn’t want to take the forks off again.
I cut the head off a 1/4-20 bolt and tapered the end on a grinder to fit in the center of a fender washer the is the diameter of spring.
it’s a crudely built tool but it does the job well. Turning the large 3/8 threaded rod on top compresses the spring all the way down beyond the threads and then as you go just thread the cap.
Go with the progressives, it will make a world of difference. You can change them on the bike. Just be careful when you take the top nut off, it’s loaded and will hurt you if you don’t keep force against it. Once you get the two springs out, take the lower fork bolt out, then you can drain the oil. It’s easier to remove the front wheel. Once you drain all the oil, put the lower bolt back in, add 10 oz of mineral spirits in each fork, loosely put the top nut back on, then pump each fork up and down, that will flush them out. Drain them again, pump up and down and let them sit over night. Next day add your oil, 10 oz each fork. Again you want to pump the forks to get any trapped air out. Total compress your forks and add your oil until you are 6″ from the top. Now you can install your new springs. I recommend Olin’s 10 wt oil. Make your self a spring compressor if you can for removal and installation.
Ralph Walters can you send a picture of one that you made??
Alex Cassie how do you use that in the bike and where did you get that PCs. Of steel that the threaded rod goes thru?
Read this post. It describes the method to perfectly set both forks to the correct air pocket height. It is the air that you are compressing and not having that equal will create an imbalance. I did extensive research before servicing my forks.
Gene Home Depot. It is a pipe hanger clamp I believe. I think I had to find the full thread rod in the hardware section. That was use with the fork off the bike. I’m sure the clamping part could be made to fit with the forks on.
I used the drain bolt on the back of the forks on the anti-dive cover plates. I used these to vacuum drawl new oil up into the fork legs. rubber hoe into a cup of oil filled with a little more than needed. Then siphoned off the excess to set the level.
Alex Cassie thanks I think I see how it works … appreciate the info . Just don’t want to pull the forks. Should have changed the springs when I did the seals ??? Lol…. live and learn .
Make sure to loosen the top pinch bolt before trying to turn the top cap. Not sure if that was mentioned already.
Alex Cassie yes…. I have to make a tool up to get the cap out . It’s an interstate there is no outside edges to the cap. It’s a center hex not .
It’s a 17mm hex. You can use 12mm bolt and nut, it’s a 17mm hex.
Ralph Walters they make them that large ??? Seen someone get a 17 mm nut and the welded that to a bolt to place it in the socket ?
Sorry, it’s a 10×1.5 bolt.
17mm hex head.
Ralph Walters thanks …. I think they make a 17mm hex at Sears??? May stop by on the way home tonight. That would save a lot
Snap-on and Mac make the socket I use. It’s for a air cooled VW to change the transmission fluid. You can also get a 17mm Allen wrench, cut it and use it also. And a 17mm is equal to 11/16.
Gene, you can get a hex socket at Autozone
Ralph Walters that’s even better I pass one on the way home .
Done a lot to my 1500 already and it runs like a dream. Want to update and fix area that I know are going . I really don’t have any interest in any other bike . The 1500 just fits .
Same here, but I do like that new 1800!!! Dream on Ralph… Lol
Road an 1800 … didn’t like it . I actually felt more comfortable on a 1000 that I restored . Felt more like riding my St1100 opposed to my gl1500.
A lot of experienced owners that have ridden extensively on many models of Goldwings claim the 1500 is the most comfortable for the longest hauls. The 1800 redesign changed the driver and passenger area dimensions for a sportier position. I find the handlebars too low and angled in more, which makes the position less comfortable for me. The fix is Helibars which are $800 plus installation. I will stick with the GL1500 until I ride a bike that does everything $10,000 better, which is probably the minimum an upgrade will cost over the value of my 1500.
Alex Cassie fully agree…
Just had Progressive springs put in my 1989 with 61000 miles on it. Huge improvement…stays nice and even when shifting….used to dive badly.
Here is what I made. It’s used when you remove the forks, but you can slide the forks up also and it will work. The large pipe flange goes on first, then the shaft collar, the all thread screws into the pipe flange, the socket is a 17mm transmission hex for a VW. It and the extension stays centered in the flat bar, the all thread goes through the flat bar, the washers and nuts bring it all together. Works real well. The collar is 50mm, (1800) the piece of plastic pipe is slotted on one side for the 1500.
That plastic piece goes on the fork tube under the collar on the 1500.
Thank you, Ralph Walters!