Expensive group sets vs cheaper group sets?


What is the difference between expensive group sets vs cheaper group sets?

Jason 5 years 0 Answers 2372 views 0

Answers ( No )

  1. Obviously the price!

  2. depends on how expensive and how cheap; example shamano 105 is 90% as good as ultegra and dura ace but 60% of the price. BUT 105 IS 1000% BETTER THAN THE UNLABELED GEAR SET ON THE WALMART BIKE for 3x the price!!

  3. Newer cheap group sets will inherit from older expensive group sets. Expensive groups get the newest features first. Quality of material.

  4. Let's see, ones expensive and ones cheap there does that question for u ?

  5. Good is never cheap. Cheap is never good…. LOL

  6. You pay more.

  7. I have Dura Ace on my race bike and Ultegra on my training bike and to be dead honest, i prefer the Ultegra…….

  8. durability and availability of replacement parts. for me, campy then shimano

  9. I have all 3 on diff bikes,not really any diff for me,maybe a few ounces.Better to knock a few kgs off body,so save on food and components,everyones a winner

  10. Some weight savings

  11. I “upgraded” from Shimano Alivio to XT and the shifting was no better.

  12. I find more expensive groupsets last longer, stay in tune longer, and the brakes are far better as the components don't flex as much. Aside from that, as long as you avoid the very cheapest ones, you'll be fine. For road, 105 will be great. Sora is fine, but the brakes are pants.

  13. As someone else mentioned, weight savings is the primary difference. I does seem that Ultegra hubs roll a tiny bit smoother than 105 when new. After 1000 miles and maintenance, I can't feel a difference.

  14. As someone else mentioned, weight savings is the primary difference. I does seem that Ultegra hubs roll a tiny bit smoother than 105 when new. After 1000 miles and maintenance, I can't feel a difference.

  15. The bottom levels, especially non-series are nearly worthless and won't last if you're putting on several miles a week. The top level is unnecessary unless you are racing. As others have said, durability, smooth operation and weight are the main differences. Find something in the middle that works for you. Maybe go to a shop and ride their most and least expensive bikes and you'll feel it.

  16. Bunch of dollars in between!!

  17. If you buy cheap crap it is garrate to fail

  18. you get what you pay for. Cheap cranksets sometimes have the chainrings all riveted together, so when you need to change a chainring, you have to replace an entire crankset. Cassettes 10 speed cassette for a random example, a inexpensive one is 10 steel gears, a expensive one will have an aluminum or carbon fiber core and just the outer edges are steel. Bearings that have better seals. Control like the shifters are sometimes integrated to the brake levers. More expensive bikes have separate shifters and brakes. If you break a brake lever, then you have to buy a integrated brake lever and shifter. I have a guy that wants to upgrade his mechanical disc brakes to hydraulic. I had to show him he will also need to buy shifters because his mechanic brakes operated from the integrated shifter lever / brake lever setup he has

  19. Price …

    (Extremely sorry but I felt the question kinda funny),

    I suggest, go through Groupset hierarchy of each brand. and you will come to know the difference, few links for reference..

    Road Bikes –

    MTB –

  20. It depends – the least expensive groupsets have fewer gear selections so manufacturing tolerances don't have to be as tight so they are less expensive to make.

    Within groupsets with the same number of gears there are trade offs based on what the intended use is.

    In DH durability and strength are more important than weight.

    In XC a mix of both is important. Competitive road cycling focuses primarily on light weight components.

  21. I bought deore XT 18 year's ago and other than the right shifter breaking still all works cost about £600 definitely worth paying out for good groupset

  22. When it falls apart at mile 40 of a ride with a total of 230 miles of use…

  23. Cheap chickens don't cheap long

  24. Basically you get what you pay for

  25. You get what you pay for!

  26. Weight. Quality of materials. Craftsmanship. Performance.

  27. Its noticeable with function. Unless combined with other components weight is negligible.

  28. Usually both work well but expensive ones usually last longer and are lighter.

  29. Stiffness, lighteness, quickness, finish.
    Durability as well, with the exception of some "Top End" race oriented gruppos.
    For most a midline gruppo is more than suffucient; I.E, Shimano 105, Campagnolo Chorus and more, Sram Force or Rival

  30. Having had my own shop, I agree that we, as non-pros, probably would't notice the difference. A well maintained group will last a long time. Several of the bikes I've build and ride still run 9 speed Shimano components. The 9 speed has allowed me to use mountain derailleurs and mountain cassettes giving me lower gears to allow greater spinning up the hills. Most dealers I know seem to want to sell you the most expensive items – because that's were they make their profit (sorry you dealers out there, for there are some excellent ones. I'm now in the non for profit bicycle education area, so feel free to contact me directly at tony10speed@gmail.com Regards and safe cycling, Tony Marchand

  31. The more you pay the less you get ,the cheaper chainset is more robust for everyday use the expensive ones are usually for racing etc etc

  32. The amount of money you can put in your kids college savings account.

  33. Buying bicycle parts is like going to a drug dealer. You pay by the gram!!! I agree with Tony, You don't need the highest end group set when you are just having fun. As a shop owner myself, I ask a series of question before I recommend a group set. I'm here to help my customers out and build a long term relationship, not screw them

  34. The alloy materials that they are made of

  35. The cheaper groups use cheaper gears and cogs that deteriorate faster. Ever had an old shifter go out? It's usually because the cheap plastic internals get worn out.

  36. Long term durability vs short term durability.

  37. All is the same just the expensive stuff is just lighter

  38. Dollar Dollar Bills Y'ALL!

  39. Price and prestige

  40. Performance. Blindfold me and I could tell the difference between 105 and Tiagra.

  41. Tolerances, weight and durability.

  42. Can't speak to newer gruppos, but I have Dura-Ace from '85 that's still snappy and looks like it was on the showroom floor a couple weeks ago.

  43. If you are gonna ride a quality bicycle use quality parts if not just go get a Walmart bike ride the crap out of it an throw it in the ditch

  44. more reliable.

  45. After midrange weight and shine. No functional different unless you are world class or 1%

  46. I've always liked Shimano 105. Nothing fancy, nor expensive. It just gets the job done.

  47. Pictures are better than words

  48. Mostly they are better in minut ways across the board, 2 levels of shimano warrants a significant increase, or one level in sram. All the compagnolo levels are about the same thing in different flavors.

  49. Shimano 105 is the minimum for racing bikes, with each step being a half step from there. Be careful of using good matches and not mixing them the way you could in 1995.

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